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낭가파르밧 루팔벽 등반기

4월 20일-출국9일째

맑음 영하3도
낭가 산 중턱에 구름이 쫘~악.
어제 새벽 정상부위에 버섯구름,역시나 하늘이 흐리다.
현지인들 이야기에 의하면 날씨가 4일 주기를 보인다는데 오늘이 좋은 4일이 지나고 나쁜 날씨의 4일이 시작된다고 했는데 정상부위가 종일 보이지 않았다.
새벽 4시 기상해서 식사후 BC까지 짐수송에 들어갔다.
짐을 꾸리다 보면 어쩔수 없이 표준 규격인 25KG를 초과하는 일이 생기는데 가령 발전기나 몇몇 분리할수 없는 장비들 그래서 편법으로 2000루피에 44KG 1개,1600루피에 30KG 5개를 보냈다.
덩어리가 25KG를 넘지 않는것은 모아모아 한바리를 만드는 것도 중요.
꾸역꾸역 몰려드는 포터들,지난밤 꿈속에서 모든 포터들이 전부 하나같이 짐무게가 25KG인지 달자고해서 잠을 설쳤는데 120개의 짐에 그보다 훨씬 많은 포터들이 와서 짐을 서로 차지 하기 위해 다투는 통에 한명도 달지 않았다.
120개의 짐을 일일이 전부 확인 한다고 해보라 얼마나 많은 시간이 걸리고 또 그결과가 25KG이 넘으면 빼달라고 난리를 피우는데 난감함이 말로 표현할수 없다.
너무 많은 수의 포터들이 와서 그들 사이에 짐을 놓고 주먹다짐과 고성이 2시간 20분동안 떠나지 않았다.
옆에 큰 동네에서 경찰관이 왔음에도 현실법보다 관습법에 엄정 지배를 받는 이곳에서 경찰관은 별무소용이다.
그래서 짐을 다섯개 늘려 달랬다.
우평,현수,창호형이 선발대로 트레킹단과 먼저 05:00 떠나고 나는 뒷정리를 하고 07:40분 출발했다.
맨뒤에서 포터들을 몰고 가려는데 산 정상부의 날씨가 심상치 않아 서둘러 제일 먼저 BC에 도착하니 어수선하고 경황없다.(11:30)
짐을 식량,연료,등반구 등등으로 구분해서 포터들에게 내리게 지시하고 임금주는 곳을 가이드 라인쳤다.
속속 도착하는 대원들과 메인텐트 3동,개인텐트 3동 완성하고 고소증세를 보인 이현길 부단장을 위해 마중내보낸 우평,상훈과 모든 사람이 도착한 시간 17:20

*중요사항
1.포터관리:초반에 기선을 제압하지 않으면 사사건건 시비에 말썽이다.
루팔 베이스까지는 하루 일정밖에 걸리지 않아 문제를 일으켜도 크게 악화되지 않지만 발토르 빙하쪽의 K2나 브로드 피크,네팔의 마칼루나 칸첸중가 처럼 카라반이 10일이상 걸리는 곳에서는 등반의 성패를 좌우한다.그들은 요구사항이 받아들여지지 않으면 칼과총도 서슴없이 꺼낸다.
1)계약을 확실히 한다.
2)사다와 쿡,셀파들을 확실히 내사람으로 만든다.
3)등반대원의 경력을 보인다.

2.막영지에 대원이 먼저 도착해서 짐을 구분해서 내려놓게 한다.확실 하게 지시하고 감독할것
1)이를 등한시 하면 지친몸을 이끌고 대원들이 식량은 식량대로 장비는 장비대로 전부 새로 옮겨 구분해 놓아야 하는데 이짓을 10일동안 계속한다고 생각하면 원정의 즐거움이 반감한다.
2)구분의 장점은 한두가지가 아닌데 물건을 쉽게 찾을수 있다는 것
작은 소품 하나를 찾기 위해 100개 이상의 잘 팩킹된 짐을 뜯고 새로 싸는 愚를 방지할수 있다.

3.중복해서 임금을 지불하지 않기 위해서 반드시 짐을 먼저 받고 돈을 주도록, 떼거지로 몰려 다니면 누가 짐을 지고 왔는지 알수 없고
한번 더 달라고 해도 쉬이 가릴수 없다.

4.베이스에 도착하면
1)죽을라 하지 않는 대원들은 모두 일을 시켜라
끊임없이 천천히 움직이는 것이 고소 적응의 지름길

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