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낭가파르밧 루팔벽 등반기

4월29일-출국18일

02:00맑음,12:00 눈,16:00 맑음

02:00 산위,아래 모두 맑다.
텐트 모두 02:00 일어나 세시에 나가자 알람을 맞추었는데 아무도 일어나지 않는다. 가기 싫은맘 간절하나 날씨가 너무 좋다. 병 총총,달 휘엉청,보름달때나 쓰는 표현인 휘엉청이 여기선 음력21일인 지금도 대기가 넘 맑아 여전히 유효하다. 02:30 일단 깨웠다.
모두가 내맘 같은지 꿈지럭 꼼지락 동작 굼뜨기가 궁뱅이 보다 더 하다.
3일째 루트 작업한 피곤기가 역력하다. 위쪽텐트 상훈을 불러도 대답 한참후다.
아랫텐트에서 차와 죽,물끓이는데 상훈 스프를 만들어 온다. 보람도 없이 차에 비스킷 한봉지 하고 출발.세시반 빈배낭으로 올라가니 그나마 수월다. 형근이 말을 듣고 마지막 로프에서 리딩 직상 60m나 올랐을까 청빙이다.
아이젠이 쉬이 박히지 않아 바일 찍는데 힘이 많이 들어간다.
스크류도 무용지물 100m를 확보 없이 올라 바위벽에 붙어 하켄 하나를 박고나니 살것 같다.
그리고 다시 100m 트레버스하고 대기하고 있으니 미곤이 먼저 올라온다. 배아픈 기색 눈치채고 선등을 서준다. 그때까지도 BC에서는 갈팡질팡 가스는 밀려오고 일단 트레버스 100m 다시 루트 파인딩
‘꼴’로 낡은 픽스로프를 보았다. 둘다 ‘앗싸’ 가 절로 나왔다.
100m 전진했을때 대장님 “날씨가 안좋아지니 그만 하산해라”무전
미곤, 형근에게 “줄깔린데 까진 짐을 나르고 내려가자”,”당연하지” 위 내용을 BC에 날렸더니 “고맙다 수고해라” 날라온다. 참 듣기 어려운 말을 들었다며 모두 뜻밖이다 여기며 흐뭇
‘꼴’ 여기 저기 픽스로프들이 보인다 대략 네가닥.일단 안도
썩은 동아줄이라도 있으면 심리적 안정이 대단한데 입맛대로 고를수 있으니 미곤이 “심봤다”가 백번이해 된다.
두말할 필요 없는 우리 미곤이의 등반능력도 천번 알게 되었다.
앞에는 미곤이 뒤에는 형근이가 있어 행복하다.
13:30 모두 모인 데포지점 5800m 그리고 하산 무전기를 뒷사람주고 먼저 내려왔는데 BC로 부터 C1 잔류 내일 루트 작업을 마무리 하란 지시를 받았단다.’입이 석자’뛰어 나왔다.
나뿐아니라 모두 넘 안 좋다. ‘혹사’다 ‘대장님이 넘 무리한 요구를 한다’,’조급해 하신다’ 별별 말이 오갔다.
더불어 무전기 잡지 않는 등반대장들도.
수차 무전으로 “루트가 낙서과 낙빙으로 위험 하니 바위로 붙던지 어떠든지 하자 말했지만 어떤 조치도 없다” “차라리 그냥 가”라도 했으면 좋았을 터인데…
삼일째 루트 작업을 한 형근,미곤이 젤 민감하다.
머리통만한 낙석이 있어 더 그럴수밖에 없다.
15:30 분 모두 내려 가려고 준비했는데 대장님 한마디”현조,미곤,상훈 남아서 루트 마무리해” 모두 말이 없다.
이미 배낭을 다 꾸린 미곤이, 짐챙기던 상훈이,텐트 밖으로 나온던 나 모두.
형근 무전기 빼앗아 대장님께”현조 배아파 제가 남겠습니다.” 참 기분 더럽다 형근도 씨발,미곤도 시발씨발,무거운 발걸음을 아래로 아래로 게다가 병찬형 자주 주저 앉는다. 갈증이 얼마나 심한지 수통에 물 남았냐를 두번씩 물었다. 18:30분 베이스 도착 언제나와 같이 대장님이 먼저 반겨 주신다. 다른대원들 잠자고 등반대장들만 남았다.
루트상태보고 하고 식사후 바로 잠

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