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4월25일 – 출국 14일

01:00 B조가 로프를 챙겨 출발하고 02:00 C조 출발위해 01:00 일어나 때이른 새벽 식사를 닭죽으로, 하늘은 짖눈깨비가 쏟아지는데 B조로 부너 무전이 “BC,BC 여기 운행조, 눈이 내리는데 출발에 지장을 줄정도 아니여서 계속 등반하겠다”는 교신
잠시 C조 식사 마치고 대기 하는데 베이스의 날씨가 호전되 대장 출발을 지시한다.
어차피 가야 하는데 한 없이 게을러 지는건 어쩔수 없다.
조장 제이 늦게 02:45 출발. 그런데 밤이 되었는데도 눈이 전혀 크러스트가 되지않아 발이 빠진다.
병찬형,남수형,상훈까지 속도가 나지 않는다.
출발 네시간이 지나서야 로프 끝자락 도착했다(이전 02:30소요)
오전 9시 30분 부턴 벌서 해가 들어 힘이 곱절로 드는데 병찬형”우리 간식좀 먹고 가자”벌써 두번째 말하는데 눈에 발이 빠질것을 생각하면 걱정이 태산이여서 무시하고 출발 “간식은 각자 알아서 드세요”
출발때부터 남수형 삼천배(넘 힘들어 머리를 설사면에 쳐박고 쉬는 자세)를 시작한다. B조는 벌써 데포지점 도착해서 루트 작업에 들어 갔다고 하는데 우리조는 나부터 마지막 남수형까지 100m 간격으로 늘어져 있다.
데포지점에 도착해 이전에 데포시킨 텐트 한동 더 달고 출발하며 상훈에겐 남은짐 전부 챙겨 올라오라 지시하고 출발,09시 30분 부터 많이 빠지는 눈이 더욱 어깨를 무겁게 한다.
위에 로프가 설치되지 않아 사고 방지를 위해서 아이젠 착용할것과 피켈을 사용하라 지시해도 150m 아래 모여서 아무리 불러도 대답도 고개를 내밀어 쳐다보지도 않는다. 힘이든 것이다.
아무리 외쳐도 대답이 없으니 성질이 팍 오른다. 몇번 더 부르니 병찬형 고개 내밀어 “모두 힘들지만 이구간 부터 조심하쇼”에 들은 시늉을 한다.
한번더 내려와 데포지점의 물건을 옮길 생각으로 속도를 내보려 지만 마음뿐 푹푹 빠지는 눈이 천길 만길 아래로 끌어 내리는 것만 같다.
“에이 염병할 내가 왜 왔을까?”
가스낀 해는 뒷머리를 한없이 내리 비춰 체온을 올리고 눈에 반사된 자외선은 얼굴을 지진다.
4900m에 도착하니 좀 깍아내면 양호한 텐트 사이트가 나올것 같은데 B조는 5000m에서 5100m를 향해 전진하며 캠프지를 찾는다고 하고 베이스의 대장도 더 높은곳을 외친다.
5100m에 도착해 바위아래 눈을 깍아내고 겨우 텐트 한동 쳤다.
B조는 한참아래 쳐진 남수형 상태을 확인하고 14:40 하산.
켐프지를 좀더 넓히고 음식은 음식대로 장비는 장비대로 정리하고 나니 데포지에서 버너,코펠을 올리지 않았다.젠장할이다 16:00 시
나와 남수형 물 1.5리터를 나눠마시고 잠자리에 들었다.
눕자마자 쌔근쌔근 자는 병찬형과 남수형 그런데 하늘이 심상치 않다.
바로 눈이 쏟아지고 털어내길 얼마 남수형이 일어나 주기적으로 컬어내는데 17:40 작은눈이 텐트쪽으로 쓸려 내렸다.
18:20 쓸려내린 눈이 이번엔 플라이를 덥쳤다.
부랴부랴 대원들 깨워 베이스에 무전 날리고 하산준비,일단 파묻힌 장비를 상훈과 찾고 텐트 철거해서 내가 안전한 곳이라 생각하는 곳에 하켄 2개치고 무거운 것으로 가벼운것 누르고 메달았다.
20:00 풀린 픽스로프까지 올려 고정하고 대원들 먼저 하산시키고 다시한번 확인 20:15 분 하산 시작
내려가는 것도 만만치 않다.
상훈에게 남수형 확보줄 먼저 내려가면서 반드시 직접 통과된걸 확인하라 지시하고 나는 젤 후미에서 병찬형과 내려 가는데 두명다 한번 넘어지면 쉬이 일어나지 못한다. 상훈이가 잘 지나가는 곳도 역시나 두명은 깊이 빠져 체력을 소진한다.베이스에서도 걱정때문에 계속무전은 와도 속도가 나지 않아 머리 아프고 피곤 하지만 도착할때까지 긴장을 풀수 없어 남수형에게 피켈은 꼭 챙기라 했다.
병찬형 계속 “간식먹고 가자” 하며 눈을 집어 먹는다.
물있는 곳까지 가서 먹자 달래 내려와 일단 시원한 물 마시고 간식먹을 것인지 의향을 물었다. “그냥 가잖다”
베이스 150m전 병찬형 “우리 좀 쉬었다 가자”,”현조는 넘 빨리 가니 상훈이 니가 젤 앞에 서라”, 상훈 왈”나나 현조형이나 똑 같으니 그냥 갑시다” 무릎까지 빠지는곳 러셀하며 가는리딩자의 고충을 알고 하는 걸까?
베이스에서 주형형은 우리가 잘 관측되는 곳까지 나가 우리를 인도하고 우평과 대장은 낮동안 녹은 물에 우리가 빠질까 우회할것을 무전으로 알려 주었다.
베이스에 도착하니 우리를 제외한 전대원과 키친보이까지 나와 반겨준다. 꼭 정상등정후 내여올때 받는 환영인사 같다.
서로가 서로를 아끼는 마음이 찡하게 다가 온다.
일단 주린속을 황도캔 하나로 달래고 전 대원 같이 저녁식사를 하는데 밥이 넘어가지 않아 녹차만 4잔 마시고 숭늉한잔더
남수형 10년 더 늙어보이는 얼굴을 뒤로 하고 먼저 잠자리에 들었다.

교신내용
C1:BC,BC 여기는 C1
BC:BC 카피
C1:C1 폭설,눈이 쓸려내려와 하산해야 겠습니다.
BC:재송바람
C1:폭설로 하산
BC:C1을 지킬수 없는가?
C1:윗쪽 눈이 플라이르 덮침,계속 텐틀 잠식하고 있습니다.
BC:꼭 철거를 해야 하는가?
C1:네
BC:위쪽 바위지대에 데포시켜라
C1:캠프지 안쪽 바위에 메달아 데포시키겠습니다.
BC:대원들 안전하게 한산시키도록

C1을 지켜냈으면 하는 대장님 간절한 말씀이 마음에 다가와도 우리의 안전을 생각하면 세세간 걸쳐 구축한 5100m의 C1을 버려야 했다.
어쩌 겠는가?
일은 사람이 꾸미지만 이루는 것은 하늘인 것을(謀事在人成事在天)

*C1도착시간
현조 12:00
상훈 12:40
병찬형 13:30
남수형 14:40

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